Roof Inspection Checklist for Homeowners — What to Check Twice a Year

Missing shingles expose the underlayment or bare deck to UV and rain. Cracked shingles allow water to seep underneath. Curling (edges lifting away from the roof surface) indicates aging adhesive and heat damage. A few missing or damaged shingles is a repair; widespread curling across the entire roof slope signals the shingles are near end-of-life.

Dark streaks are usually Gloeocapsa magma algae — cosmetic but indicates moisture retention. Moss is worse: its root system lifts shingle edges and traps moisture underneath, accelerating granule loss and rot. Light moss can be treated with zinc or copper strips. Heavy moss coverage needs professional cleaning before it permanently damages the shingles.

Flashing (the metal pieces where the roof meets a wall, chimney, or penetration) is the most common leak source on any roof. Look for flashing that's lifted, rusted, missing caulk, or separated from the surface it seals against. Counter-flashing at chimneys should be embedded in the mortar joint, not surface-mounted with caulk alone.

The drip edge (metal strip at the roof edge) directs water away from the fascia into the gutter. If it's bent, missing, or rusted, water runs behind the gutter and rots the fascia board. Soft, peeling, or discolored fascia means water damage is already happening. Press the fascia with your thumb — sound wood resists; damaged wood gives.

Stand back from the house and sight along the ridge and eave lines. They should be straight and level. A sag along the ridgeline indicates a structural issue — broken ridge board, failed rafter, or long-term water damage to the framing. A sag between rafters at the eave line means the decking is delaminated or the rafters are undersized. Both require professional evaluation.

Some granule loss is normal on asphalt shingles, especially in the first year after installation. But if your gutters are filling with granules, the shingles are nearing end-of-life. Grab a handful of gutter debris: if it's mostly granules (looks like coarse sand) rather than leaves and twigs, start planning for replacement within 2–5 years.

Gutters should slope at least 1/4 inch per 10 feet toward each downspout. Standing water in a gutter section means it's sagged or the pitch is wrong. Loose gutter spikes or hangers allow sections to pull away from the fascia, creating a gap where water runs behind the gutter and damages the roof edge and soffit.

A blocked downspout causes the gutter to overflow, pouring water directly against the fascia and foundation. Run a hose into each downspout to verify flow. The bottom of each downspout should discharge at least 4–6 feet from the foundation via an extension or splash block. Water pooling at the foundation causes basement leaks and foundation settling.

Turn off your flashlight, let your eyes adjust for 60 seconds, and scan the underside of the deck. Pinpoints of light mean the shingles and underlayment are breached at those spots. Even small holes let wind-driven rain in. Mark each spot with bright tape for a contractor to reference from above.

Water stains on the underside of the deck or along rafters indicate past or active leaks. Fresh stains are wet and dark; old stains are dry and lighter colored. Mold (black, green, or white fuzzy growth) means prolonged moisture — either a leak or a ventilation problem trapping condensation. Mold covering more than 10 sq ft should be professionally remediated before roof repair.

Insulation should be evenly distributed across the attic floor. Bare spots and compressed areas reduce energy efficiency. At the eaves, check that insulation hasn't been pushed against or over the soffit vents — blocked soffits kill attic ventilation. Polystyrene baffles ($1–$2 each) installed between rafters at the eaves keep insulation away from the soffits.

On a breezy day, you should feel slight air movement in a properly ventilated attic: air entering at the soffits and exiting at the ridge or gable vents. If the attic is dead still and hot (significantly hotter than outside air), ventilation is insufficient. Poor ventilation traps moisture in winter (causing ice dams and mold) and bakes shingles from below in summer (shortening their lifespan by 20–30%).

Roofing debris in the yard is the most obvious sign of storm damage. Photograph everything where it landed before cleaning up — insurers want to see the debris in situ. Check neighbors' yards too; if debris blew across the street, it may have blown off your roof first.

Hail dents on soft metals like aluminum gutters and lead pipe boots are easy to spot and confirm that hail hit your property with enough force to damage roofing. If gutters are dented, the shingles above likely have hail damage too — even if it's not visible from the ground. Document the dents with close-up photos including a ruler for scale.

Storm damage may create leaks that only show during heavy rain. Walk through every room and check ceilings, especially around light fixtures, bathroom exhaust fans, and corners where the ceiling meets exterior walls. A new brown stain that wasn't there before the storm is evidence of a fresh leak.

Take wide-angle and close-up photos of every piece of damage you find — roof, gutters, siding, yard debris. Include photos of the overall house showing the roof. Date-stamp everything. If you file an insurance claim days or weeks later without contemporaneous photos, adjusters are harder to work with. Store copies on your phone and in the cloud.