Post-Storm Roof Safety Checklist — Assess Damage and Protect Your Home

Wet roofing materials are extremely slippery. Storm-weakened decking can collapse under your weight. Downed power lines may be draped across or near the roof. Wait until the storm has fully passed, the roof surface is dry, and you've confirmed no power lines are in contact with the house or surrounding trees. If you see downed lines anywhere on your property, stay inside and call the utility company.

Walk the perimeter of the house at a safe distance. Look for a leaning chimney, visibly displaced walls, a sagging roof line, or trees that have fallen into the structure. If any of these are present, the building may be structurally unsound. Do not enter until a professional has assessed structural integrity.

Water running through ceiling fixtures, outlets, or junction boxes creates electrocution risk. If water is actively entering the home through the roof, turn off the main breaker before touching any wet surfaces. If the electrical panel is in a flooded area, do not approach it — call the utility company to disconnect power at the meter.

Before any cleanup or temporary repairs, document the current state of the roof from every angle. Take wide shots showing the full roof and zoom in on damaged areas. Photograph debris on the ground that came from the roof (shingles, flashing, ridge cap pieces). This baseline documentation is essential for your insurance claim — adjusters need to see damage as the storm left it.

Use binoculars to scan all roof surfaces. Missing shingles appear as dark rectangular patches where the underlayment (black felt paper) or bare wood decking is exposed. Count the number of missing shingles per slope and note their locations. Exposed decking (bare wood visible) is a higher priority than exposed underlayment, which provides temporary water protection.

Hail damage on shingles is difficult to see from the ground. Instead, look at 'soft metal' indicator surfaces: gutters, downspouts, window screens, air conditioning fins, and aluminum siding. If these show dents, the roof almost certainly has hail damage too. Note the size of dents — golf-ball-sized (1.75 inches) typically means significant shingle damage.

Wind lifts and displaces flashing, creating gap between the flashing and the surface it's sealing against. Look for flashing that's pulled away from chimneys, wall intersections, or vent pipes. Displaced flashing creates immediate leak paths that won't self-seal. Even a quarter-inch gap allows significant water entry.

Do not attempt to remove large trees or heavy branches from the roof yourself. Improper removal can cause additional structural damage or collapse weakened areas. Document the tree damage with photos and call a tree service. Removing branches overhanging the roof prevents additional damage from secondary falls in follow-up weather.

Position containers under every drip point. Place towels around the base to catch splatter. If water is pooling on a ceiling but not yet dripping through, poke a small hole in the lowest point of the bulge to drain it into a bucket — a controlled drain prevents the entire ceiling section from collapsing under the water weight.

Use heavy-duty tarps (minimum 6-mil poly, blue tarps are standard) extending at least 4 feet beyond the damaged area on all sides. Secure with 2x4 lumber battens screwed through the tarp into the decking — don't rely on weights or ties alone, as they'll blow off in the next wind event. If the roof is too steep or damaged to access safely, call a professional emergency tarping service.

Water from roof leaks travels along framing and can appear far from the actual roof damage. Move furniture, electronics, documents, and irreplaceable items away from walls and areas below the damaged roof section. Photograph any damaged personal property for your insurance claim before moving it.

Call your insurance company or file online as soon as possible. After major storms, adjusters are booked for weeks — early filers get seen first. Have your policy number, date and type of storm, description of visible damage, and your photographic documentation ready. Ask for a claim number and the adjuster's name and contact information.

Emergency tarping and water mitigation are expected and covered. But do not replace shingles, repair flashing, or make permanent fixes before the adjuster sees the damage. If you repair before inspection, the adjuster can't verify the damage existed and may deny the claim. Keep all temporary — save permanent for after the adjuster's visit.

For each damaged area, take multiple photos from different angles with a measuring tape or common object for scale. Record the location (north slope, west chimney flashing, etc.) and type of damage. Include interior damage — water stains, wet insulation, damaged drywall. A thorough inventory prevents the adjuster from missing items, which results in a higher claim payout.

Insurance adjusters work for the insurance company, not for you. Their estimate may understate damage or use below-market pricing. Get an independent estimate from a licensed local roofer. If the adjuster's estimate is significantly lower, you have grounds to negotiate. You can also hire a public adjuster (typically 10–15% of the claim amount) to negotiate on your behalf.

Contractors who knock on your door after a storm are almost always out-of-state storm chasers. They do quick, substandard work, collect payment, and move to the next disaster area. If there's a problem with the repair, they're unreachable. Always select a contractor you found yourself through referrals, online research, or your local roofing association.

After storms, demand for roofers exceeds supply, and unlicensed operators fill the gap. Verify the contractor's license with your state licensing board, confirm insurance is active with the insurance company directly, and check for a physical local business address. Do not accept out-of-state licenses.

Assignment of Benefits (AOB) contracts transfer your insurance claim rights to the contractor. This means the contractor negotiates directly with your insurer and you lose control of the claim. AOB abuse is so widespread that several states have restricted or banned the practice. Keep control of your own claim and pay the contractor directly after the work is inspected.

The contractor's scope of work should match your insurance claim line-by-line. If the claim covers 20 squares of shingle replacement, the contract should specify 20 squares. If there's a discrepancy, resolve it before work begins. Mismatches between claim and contract create payment disputes that leave you in the middle.